Thursday, 8 May 2008


Driving home from work today, always take the route past my local, even though its cheaper on gas to go over the motorway... my jaw dropped to see a massive set roll through..
The freaky East swells the last few weeks have been driving a hard chisel through this break, realigning the boulders along the base of the headland, and seriously slapping around the banks. Although fat at takeoff, the peeling sections walled up steeper than Baldwin Street, making for some extremely workable faces.



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